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A Dermatologist's Guide To Hair Care & Hair Cosmetics (Part I)
by Dr K C Yee & H C Ting, Consultant Dermatologists, Kuala Lumpur

To many of us, our hair is our 'crowning glory' and its appearance is of great importance to our self-esteem and well-being. Proof of this is in the US$25 billion in worldwide annual sales of hair care products. These include hair styling, cleaning, conditioning, colouring and shaping agents. In this two-part article we will explore the rationale behind these products in the market today, their safety as OTC products, and their role in maintaining healthy hair.

What is healthy hair?

Healthy hair has lightness, volume, spring and control and yet is supple, with softness and sheen. Hair care products are formulated to help restore the natural beauty of hair. Dry or greasy hair will of course require special hair care products. Many people however, may not realize that their usual hair grooming and cosmetic practices may be inflicting damage to their hair resulting in weathering - with the all too possible scenario of 'hair today, gone tomorrow!'.

What is weathering?

Weathering is basically excessive wear and tear of the hair shaft. The hair shaft has an outer thin layer of cells called the cuticle. The cuticle forms an overlapping layer (like roof tiles) with the free edge towards the hair tip.

Normal Hair Cuticle

The injudicious use of harsh hair care products such as soap and strong detergent shampoos can damage this protective cuticle. Some cosmetic hair procedures (eg permanent waving, bleaching, dyeing), back combing, and hot blow-drying can lead to progressive damage to the cuticle.

Cuticle damage from perming

Weathering also includes environmental insults to the hair such as exposure to sunlight, pollutants, seawater, and chlorinated swimming-pool water. This leaves hair which is dull, dry, with a brittle feel and a proneness to breakage, and tangling.

Painstaking scientific research by the hair cosmetic industry has given us better and safer products to cleanse, maintain hair integrity and minimize weathering. Let us now take a closer look at some of these familiar products.

SHAMPOOS

Shampoos were originally solely used for cleansing the hair but in recent years their use has included conditioning, and treatment of scalp and hair diseases such as dandruff or head lice. The surfactant component in shampoos removes skin grease (sebum) and dirt in the wash water. In general, most modern shampoos are quite efficient in their cleansing power. Unfortunately, consumers usually assess shampoos mainly by the amount of lather, (as well as ease of rinsing, and the feel of hair when dry). However, the shampoos that lathers most also tends to be harsher on the hair and skin. Thankfully, the latest formulations utilize compounds which lather well which are also mild on the hair (ethoxylated anionics, non-ionics and amphoterics).

Anti-dandruff shampoos

Shampoos which contain additives such as zinc pyrithione, coal tar, and ketoconazole are useful in controlling the itch and flaking in this common affliction.

Shampoo safety

Shampoos are such commonly used personal care items they need to be very safe indeed. Extensive technical, laboratory and human testing (such as eye sting test for baby shampoos) is normally carried out before each release of major commercial shampoos to ensure it is non-toxic, non-irritant and non-damaging to the skin, hair and eyes. Modern shampoos and conditioners do not cause hair loss.

CONDITIONERS

Conditioners are agents that makes the hair easier to comb when wet and gives the hair more body or volume without fly-away when dry. They are used as part of 2-in-1 shampoos or used immediately after cleansing. Conditioners protect the damaged weathered hair by selective binding to the rougher damaged portions of the hair surface. Cationic polymers for instance leave a continuous film on the hair which imparts body, texture and firmness, and at the same time facilitating combing and brushing. Conditioners can also add shine to hair - by reducing static, or by changing the refractive index of the hair. Lastly, conditioners may contain additives such as vitamins, oils keratin proteins which may help impart better handling characteristics or moisture retention properties to the hair. A good formulation balances these desired results without having excessive deposits on the hair that may make hair feel limp.

In the next part of this article, we will discuss some of the more common hair cosmetics and practices, and hair care for dry and greasy hair.