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A Dermatologist's Guide To Hair Care & Hair Cosmetics (Part II)
by Dr K C Yee & H C Ting, Consultant Dermatologists, Kuala Lumpur

In our last article we discussed the importance of maintaining hair in optimum health by gentle cleansing and conditioning with modern hair care products. This week we will discuss some of the common hair cosmetics and practices and the care of 'dry' and greasy hair.

PERMANENT WAVING

Healthy hair has lightness, volume, spring and control and yet is supple, with softness and sheen. Hair care products are formulated to help restore the natural beauty of hair. Dry or greasy hair will of course require special hair care products. Many people however, may not realize that their usual hair grooming and cosmetic practices may be inflicting damage to their hair resulting in weathering - with the all too possible scenario of 'hair today, gone tomorrow!'.

Permanent waving is a chemical process that alters the hair shape that persists even after shampooing. It involves twosteps. The first cleaves double sulphur bonds in the hair cuticle so that the hair shape can be reorganized by bending them around rollers. The second step is to reform these double sulphur bonds with peroxide to hold them in its new shape. Perming weakens the hair because there is incomplete re-formation of all the cleaved disulphide bonds. It is more prone to surface damage and weathering. Interestingly, Asian hair which is thick and circular is more difficult to perm compared to Caucasian hair.

HAIR COLOURING

The most common reason for dyeing hair is to hide grey hairs, although one could chose virtually any colour of the rainbow to match your evening dress! Hair dyes are usually classified according to their resistance to washing:

HAIR STYLING PRODUCTS

These are resin formulations designed to hold hair in its new shape and style. These products form a bond between adjacent hair fibres (cross welds or seam welds) or coat the hair to give it extra rigidity. The hold is temporary and removed with each shampoo. There are many product forms eg. aerosols, gels, and mousses with varying degrees of hold. Sprays allow a more open style while gels and mousses tend to gather the fibres together. Hair styling products are generally safe for the hair although some may present with flakes when brushed and resembles dandruff.

HAIR TREATMENT FOR SPLIT ENDS These products are high viscosity silicone fluids which draw the split ends of the fibres together thus reducing its split end appearance. However, this effect is lost with shampooing and the best approach is to prevent split ends by proper care of hair and avoidance of harsh chemical treatments

HAIR BLEACHES

This is not a common procedure in Asia, but with society becoming more cosmopolitan, hairdressers and clients need to realize that this is a damaging process. Hair bleaching usually with hydrogen peroxide bleaches the melanin pigment under the hair cuticle. Repeated bleaches weakens the hair fibre, makes it more porous and brittle.

HAIR CARE PRODUCTS FOR 'DRY HAIR'

The term 'dry hair' refers to hair that appears dry, dull, with loss of sheen, and is brittle to touch. Why do some people have 'dry hair'? The first reason is physiological, i.e. under-secretion of grease by the skin. Secondly, hair can appear dry when it is damaged by over-vigorous mechanical (over-tight curlers, hot-blowing) or chemical treatments (eg perms, dyeing, harsh shampoos) or climatic insults (sun, pollutants etc.).

Hair care products for dry hair approach the problem in many ways. First, by attempting to replace the missing fatty components with substitutes such as lanolin, fatty acids, natural triglycerides, waxes, and phospholipids. The second approach is to reduce hair damage with conditioners which provide lubrication and gloss, and makes brushing and combing easier. Still other products for dry hair employ organic acids (acetic and lactic acids) which restore the hair pH to normal after normal cleansing. The traditional value of rinsing with lemon or vinegar is well known.

HAIR CARE PRODUCTS FOR GREASY HAIR

Persons with overactive grease glands (seborrhoea) suffer from several unwanted consequences. First, the greasy hair tends to stick in clumps and hairstyles do not last as the hair is weighed down by the excess sebum. Secondly, greasy hair attracts dust easily and thus gets dirty very quickly. Lastly, the excess sebum gets peroxidized to a disagreeable odour.

Hair care products for greasy hair employ anti-grease compounds, many of which also have useful anti-itch, antiseptic properties . Examples are sulphur and its derivatives, tars, grease absorbers, and substances that retard sebum transfer from scalp to hair. These products for greasy hair can be applied as lotions, after-shampoo lotions, gels, hair rinses, dry shampoos, and liquid non-ionic shampoos.

SUMMARY
To maintain hair in a healthy state and to prevent damage to hair, it is common sense to minimize physical and chemical trauma to hair:

With a good understanding of hair care and a dash of modern alchemy, there is no reason today why everyone should not boast of a good head of healthy bouncing hair.

• Choose shampoos with mild surfactant systems.
• Use conditioners for weathered hair to prevent further friction damage.
• Use wide toothed combs to minimize trauma especially when hair is wet, and do not back-comb.
• Avoid tight ponytails and tight braids.
• Reduce treatments involving heat (hot curlers, hot blow-drying), permanent waves, straighteners, and hair dyes, all of which cause cumulative hair shaft damage.

With a good understanding of hair care and a dash of modern alchemy, there is no reason today why everyone should not boast of a good head of healthy bouncing hair.